The Age Good Food Guide 2007

Studley Park Boathouse

1 Boathouse Road, Kew 

Contemporary 

13/20

Studley Park Boathouse was built in 1864 to shelter the watercraft of pleasure seeking genteel folk.  Today, it’s devoted to pleasures of the palate.  A kiosk and café cover off  snacks and casual dining, while the ambience at this upstairs restaurant (formerly Beate’s) comes about as close to fine dining as Melbourne restaurateurs dare to get these days.  The design philosophy owes more to maximalsim than minimalism, with butter-coloured, original pressed-metal walls and ceilings, royal blue carpet and voluptuous maroon velvet curtains.  Well spaced dining tables are a sea of blinding white linen, surrounded by high-back chairs.  Chef Oliver Fulljames’ menu is a blend of sophistication and conservatism:  there might be sweet and tender chunks of char siu-marinated pork belly with wide noodles and crisp green vegetables, or rose-pink beef carpaccio splayed under a bundle of beansprouts, roasted peanuts and fresh coriander.  A main of aged eye fillet with mash, wilted spinach and cabernet jus earns points for execution, if not for imagination.  Water views aren’t as rare as they used to be in Melbourne, but this Arcadianidyll of fat, silver-trunked gums, brilliant green grass and still, snaking river takes some beating.

 Open  Wed-Fri & Sun noon-3pm  etc etc etc

Prices  E $11.50-$21 M $26-$36 D $14-18

Cards   etc etc

Wine  Long, well presented and fairly priced list, Aussie big brands thick on the ground and lots by the glass

Owner  KRT Riverside

Chef  Oliver Fulljames

Seats  74, outdoor seating, private room

Eating & Drinking in Melbourne  

The Restaurant At Studley Park Boathouse
Boathouse RS, Studley Park Kew
Melway REF 2D:F8
Phone: 9853 1828 opening hours: Restaurant Lunch: Wed-Fri and Sun from 12 noon Dinner: Wed -Sat 6.30-8.30pm. Cafe 7 days 12-5pm, Sat, Sun & Public Holidays 9-11am Breakfast served licensed: Yes credit cards: Yes seats inside: 65 closed: Christmas Day, only breakfast served on public holidays features: No smoking, kids encouraged, private rooms: 20, 75

A secret place divorced from the clamorous city by a protective arm of ancient rock, romantically situated beside the gently flowing Yarra. The surroundings are gum trees and weeping willows and the local inhabitants are snotty ducks, gourmet sparrows and stereophonic bellbirds. The wooden boathouse (opened in 1864) has been preserved and restored with care, this houses Beate's restaurant, cafe and kiosk, not to mention a nautical garage for rivercraft. The restaurant provides a standard of service and food which never fails to impress my overseas friends. Beate exists, she is a very attractive host and employs polite and efficient staff and a chef who creates fascinating Australian dishes with a light mystic touch of Asia, I recall the chicken, chilli and empanada with a breeze of banana then a scrumptious tart - peanut butter, chocolate, caramel and hokey pokey crust. A gymnasium for exercising the taste buds. The cafe, with its balcony of umbrellas is another joy and has a carefree atmosphere. The kiosk too is critically acclaimed by little people with chocolate- covered fingers and faces, determined not to part with a crumb to fat, envious sparrows, L.F

favourites: Leader prawn in a light tempura batter stuffed with sweet potatoe & water chestnuts with vietnamese cucumber & carrot pickle relish $14.50, Roast crisp skin duckling with a rhubarb & ginger served with green onion pancakes & braised bok choy $26.00, Chicken & chilli empanades $14.00